Visiting Monaco on a tight budget: yes, it is possible!

6 Oct

Monaco: gorgeous, but not as expensive as you may think. Follow the advice below for a rip-off free experience!


Some of you may be contemplating a trip to Monaco in the near future but have this impression of the Principality as a place where you cannot get by with under 1.000€ per day. Naturally, if you do have the desire to spend that amount, you can easily find hundreds of exotic ways of getting rid of large sums of money in a couple of minutes!

The good news is that Monaco is also a place where normal people, not just multi-millionaires, live and work, and that there are therefore plenty of ways for the common of mortals to have a wonderful sample of what the country can offer on a very reasonable budget. Follow the advice below and you’ll find that, contrary to popular belief, Monaco is much cheaper than most major cities in Europe on several different levels.

  1. WHERE TO STAY?

There are a couple of reasonable places in Monaco: just bear in mind though that they’re quite small and you need to book well in advance. Some examples are Hotel de Versailles and Hôtel de France, both located next to the Place d’Armes market square and 5 minutes from the harbour: double rooms there cost between 70€ and 100€ depending on the period (much more during the Formula 1 Grand Prix). You can find cheaper places elsewhere on the Riviera, but then again, you’re staying in the heart of Monaco and there is no cumbersome public transport to travel on each day.

Alternatively, you can find cheaper options in nearby Beausoleil which has several comfortable 2 star hotels within easy walking distance of the Casino of Monte Carlo or the Grimaldi Forum conference centre for business travellers.

Nice can be even cheaper, depending on the accommodation: travel is easy, a bus ride on line 100 takes about one hour from the terminus close to Place Massena but only costs 1 € for a single ticket along one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the world, so well worth doing if you are not in a hurry. A train ride is much faster, at 25 minutes, and smoother but is slightly dearer, at 3.50 € one way (a return is double the price).

Villa Kerylos in Beaulieu: this is the kind of view you get on the 3.50€ train or the 1€ bus coming into Monaco from Nice

  1. GETTING AROUND MONACO

Monaco isn’t a very large place but getting around on foot can be quite tiring after a while due to the very uneven terrain and the heat in the summer. Fortunately buses are frequent and very cheap, with a very extensive network: a single ticket is just 1 € anywhere in Monaco and an even better deal is the one-day unlimited pass which just costs 3 €.

This pricing also applies to the wonderful “Bateau Bus”, an electric boat that crosses the harbour from one side to the other every 20 minutes, so is perfect to get from Monte-Carlo to the Old Town whilst taking a relaxing cruise amongst the yachts in the world-famous Monaco harbour. Can you imagine anywhere else in the world where that is possible for 1 euro?

View from the Bateau Bus - you can use this electric boat to take a mini-cruise across the harbour for just 1€

There is also an extensive night bus network within Monaco, starting at about 9pm and which costs exactly the same as during the day.

By the way, don’t bother with taxis, the minimum cost for any trip within Monaco is 12 € – go outside of Monaco and it will almost double if you go outside. Just in case you were considering it, a taxi fare to Nice is around 70 € and a trip Nice airport will set you back 100 € (the same as a helicopter ride if you’re alone), so just take a bus or a train.

  1. SIGHTSEEING AROUND MONACO FOR FREE

You are now in Monaco and armed with your unlimited travel 3€ bus pass – there is a whole host of things you can do for free:

-          Head up on foot or by bus onto the Rock (the Old Town), follow my walking tour and soak in the atmosphere and the wonderful views. It’s best to do this early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowds but if you have no choice, do it anyway, it’s worth it…! You can always stand in the sunshine on Palace Square and watch the changing of the guard ceremony with all the crowds if you enjoy that kind of thing, every day at 11.55am sharp. All the attractions are free (public gardens, the Cathedral etc) except for the inside of the Palace (8 €, tickets can now be bought online) and the Oceanographic Museum (14 € – steep but definitely worth it, bear in mind they have a rather large aquarium and need to feed the sharks!).

Wander around the streets of the Old Town

-          Walk to the tip of the gigantic semi-floating jetty sticking out of the Rock where the cruise terminal is (only if there are no cruise ships, otherwise it’s shut) and enjoy the fabulous panoramic views.

The view from the semi-floating jetty over France and Italy

-          Hop onto the Bateau Bus (full information here) towards the Monte-Carlo side using your bus pass, whilst enjoying wonderful views of the sea, the mountains and the yachts.

The electric Bateau Bus, an interesting way of getting from A to B and to get wonderful views of the harbour for the price of a bus ride.

-          Walk around the Formula 1 Grand Prix circuit or follow it by bus (a combination of lines 1, 2 or 6), it will take around 1 hour, excluding photo stops and is highlighted on all the tourist maps (available for free virtually anywhere in Monaco).

View over the Grand Prix circuit during the actual race: you can walk down this waterfront the same evening, a few hours after the race!

-          Check out the luxury cars in front of the Casino and the Hotel de Paris on Casino square, explore the lush casino gardens and wander through the marble alleyways of the Metropole shopping centre.

The entrance to the Monte-Carlo casino

-          Have a flutter at one of the casinos: the Café de Paris, the Sun Casino (located in the lobby of the Fairmont Hotel just below) and the slot machine section of the main Casino are free to access but there is a very long list of things that are banned at each entrance (ex. shorts, cameras, phones etc). To access the much more elegant private section of the main Casino, you will need to pay 10 €, bring your passport and dress smartly, although a tux is no longer compulsory.

Entrance to the Sun Casino, located inside the Fairmont Hotel

-           Enjoy the great views over the whole of Monaco from the Casino terraces just behind (basically the roof garden of the Fairmont hotel) – probably my favourite view of the whole of Monaco.

View over the back of the Casino from the Casino terraces on top of the Fairmont hotel

-          Lie on the beach at Larvotto (several sections are private but there are also public sections – just find the bits with no plastic deck chairs) and have a swim in the clear blue waters, under 10 minutes’ walk from the Casino and just behind the Grimaldi Forum conference centre. There is also a rather rocky but lovely secluded beach on the side of the Rock between the cruise terminal and the Oceanographic Museum.

Larvotto beach: a great place to relax after a long day's sightseeing

-          Have a pleasant stroll through the authentic Japanese garden, located between the casino and the Grimaldi Forum.

The Japanese garden of Monaco

-          On the opposite side of town (easily accessible by bus no. 6 from anywhere central), have a wander along the second port of Monaco, that of Fontvieille, built on reclaimed land in the 1960s, which has its fair share of yachts as well as a lovely view of the Cathedral and the Oceanographic Museum. Then visit the lovely Princess Grace rose garden – just check with the tourist office beforehand if the roses are in flower or not.

Overhead view of the Port of Fontvieille, built on reclaimed land, and its unique "neo-Provençal" architecture

I think there’s more than enough free stuff to do in that list for you to have a very busy day!

 

  1. WHERE TO GET DECENT FOOD AND DRINK ON A BUDGET

For lunch, I would suggest to eat something typical and good: the perfect place is around the Place d’Armes market which is where the locals eat (see my walking tour of the Old Town for a description). Go around the inside of the market and get for a portion of socca, a local chick pea pancake snack, for around 3€ in the bar called “Chez Roger”. You can also taste a barbaguian, a typical Monegasque sort of fried pastry stuffed with spinach or chard, cheese and a little bit of rice, or else some stuffed vegetables. A filling snack should set you back no more than 5 or 6 €.

The typical Monegasque barbaguian, a great snack for lunch

If you are really feeling the pinch, you can head over to the Carrefour supermarket just 5 minutes away in Fontvieille and get anything you want: honestly, supermarket prices in Monaco are pretty much the same as anywhere else in France and much cheaper than for example the UK, Scandinavia or even a Monoprix in central Paris.

Before dinner, after a long day’s sightseeing, you can have a pit stop at the Brasserie de Monaco, located right on the Grand Prix circuit on the harbour: they brew their own organic beer there according to Bavarian traditions (white, pils or amber ale) and you can even take tours of the place. Their half-price happy hour lasts from 5pm until 8pm and a pint of beer (50 cl, ie. a French pint!) costs just 3 €, a real bargain for beer lovers. A glass of organic wine costs the same amount and you can also get reasonably priced Monegasque snacks like pichade (a focaccia with tomatoes, olives and fried onions) or pissaladière (the same thing but without the tomatoes). You can even bring back a souvenir coaster!

Apéritif snacks at the Brasserie de Monaco on the harbour

Other bars on the same strip (known as the Darse Sud) have a similar Happy Hour: the famous la Rascasse bar and casino is located right on one of the bends of the Grand Prix circuit and has half-price drinks (4 € for a glass of wine) until 11pm. Don’t forget that wine by the glass tends to be considerably cheaper than beer on the whole of the Riviera, but there is less of a price difference than in Italy.

La Rascasse, good for happy hour drinks but also if you want to stay out a bit later (but drinks are more expensive after 11pm)

For a nice sit-down dinner, there are plenty of places where you can get a simple main course (top quality pizza, pasta or a dish of the day), a typical dessert (think tiramisu, panna cotta or profiteroles) and some wine for under 25€ in a nice location. Most of the places within this budget range are located in or around the area surrounded by the harbour and rue Grimaldi, so I would suggest that you walk around and choose what you fancy according to the location and what’s on the menu. Particularly pleasant are the restaurants on the pedestrian Rue Princesse Caroline (perpendicular to the main harbour) and on Boulevard Albert 1er, the departure grid of the Grand Prix running alongside the waterfront. So none of these places will break your budget.

There are also plenty of surprisingly good and even more reasonably priced places up in the Old Town, which tend to serve more local food – you can easily find a three-course menu for between 17 € and 22 €. Only go there for dinner though, as at lunchtime they are packed with tourists and you will have to slalom between the souvenir-buying crowds. But if you get dinner there, you will be rewarded by silence in the streets, a lovely atmosphere and a priceless “Monaco by night” view of the yachts in the glittering harbour below.

So I hope that all this information has convinced you that Monaco is hardly a rip-off destination as long as you know where to go – don’t let the myths dissuade you, just come here and sample the place for yourselves!

What about the mountains?

5 Oct

The Alps lurking just behind Cap Ferrat and Cap d'Ail, a great view thanks to British Airways!

What most visitors do not realise, especially in the summer months, is that the “Alpes Maritimes” area where the Riviera is based is named that way for a reason: basically because, just behind the coastal strip, lie the Alps in all their glory (actually, they’re quite visible on any flights heading towards Northern Europe).

The mountains, which go up to over 3000m in the Alpes Maritimes, cover almost 90% of the department, which makes for great hiking in the summer and skiing/other snow sports in the winter for those that way inclined. This is the main reason that Nice spent loads of money on an ultimately unsuccessful bid a couple of years ago to host the 2018 Winter Olympics: I thought it made sense, at least on paper and was a good idea to get away from the general stereotypes of the Côte d’Azur.

In this respect (and actually many others), the French Riviera is a bit like California: in April for example, you can go skiing in the morning and have enough time to get back to the coast and spend the afternoon lying in the sunshine on the beach, given that some of the ski resorts are only 90 minutes’ drive from Nice

The most easily accessible resorts from Nice are Auron and Isola 2000, with other resorts such as Gréolières-Neige, Valberg and Limone Piemonte (in Italy) also within easy access for a day trip.

Winter wonderland: the mountains just outside the ski resort of Valberg, about 90 minutes north of Nice

Limone Piemonte is my personal favourite, even though I’m not a great fan of skiing, mainly because of the culture shock you get crossing the border into the Piemonte area of Italy. It is located north of the Roya Valley just across the border, passing through the Col de Tende and its historical but rather dodgy and ancient tunnel. Access is possible by car (2 hours from Nice, 90 minutes from Monaco) or by a beautiful train journey from Nice, again through Ventimiglia – that takes slightly longer. The skiing is reportedly good (altitude of 1000m) but the main draw for me (you see where I’m getting!) is the quaint little village with excellent restaurants serving mountain-influenced Italian food: plenty of game, polenta and great pizzas at reasonable prices.

The mountain village of Limone-Piemonte

Naturally all these places are fully and more easily accessible during the summer and are wonderful for hiking, which I love, and all sorts of other “adventure sports”, which I don’t, as they generally involve dangling from great heights from a rather thin rope or getting very wet!

The hinterlands are generally separated in different valleys, the main ones being from west to east: the Var, the Tinée, the Vésubie and the Roya Valleys (my personal favourite, straddling the border between France and Italy), plus on the Italian side the gorgeous Val Nervia. I’ll write in a bit more detail about the individual valleys in due course.

Eze Village and the Nietzsche trail

5 Oct Panoramic winter view of Eze Village and Eze sur Mer taken from the Fort de la Revère, at 700m altitude. In the distance you can see Cap Ferrat, the Bay of Villefranche and the Cape of Nice

Panoramic winter view of Eze Village and Eze sur Mer taken from the Fort de la Revère, at 700m altitude. In the distance you can see Cap Ferrat, the Bay of Villefranche and the Cape of Nice

Eze is one of the stops on the picturesque 40km stretch of railway line that runs east along the coast from Nice to Ventimiglia at the Italian border, passing through Monaco and Menton on the way. Listed in most of the guidebooks, the commune of Eze is structured on three layers up the side of a mountain and is famous for its eagle’s nest Village, perched at an altitude of 450m.

- At sea level, Eze Bord-de-Mer is mainly noted for a nice beach (rocky like most of the beaches in the area) with good surfing waves in the winter at the bottom of a beautiful bay surrounded by mountains. It is mainly a starting point for the hike up to Eze Village, as the train station is located there and the coastal buses pass along the main road.
- Eze Village is perched on a rocky promontory, just above the panoramic “Moyenne Corniche” road linking Nice to Monaco, at an altitude of about 430m.
- The Col d’Eze/Plateau de la Justice, located at 650m above sea level is a good spot for coastal hikes and picnics.

Getting there

- By train: about 15 minutes along the coast from Nice to Eze station or 10 minutes from Monaco; from there, it’s a strenuous but picturesque 1 hour hike up the Nietszche trail to the village

- By bus: bus number 82 heads directly to Eze village from the Vauban bus stop in eastern Nice (close to the Acropolis conference centre) and runs at intervals of around 90 minutes. Otherwise, bus number 100 is much more frequent and follows the coast: it will drop you near the Eze sur Mer train station, if you fancy the uphill walk. Finally, line 83 runs between the train station and the village if you don’t feel like walking but the buses run much less frequently. Click on the bus numbers for timetables.

What to see

- For me, the main draw is climbing up the famous Nietszche trail from the coastline to the Village, named after the German philosopher who lived up there in the late 19th century. It is said that he climbed up the trail every day in the summer and that the heat gave him the hallucinations and inspiration for his work “Also Sprach Zarathustra “. I personally think that the daily trek up the hill also led to his celebrated madness… All this to say that the trail is ideal to climb up in the spring, autumn and winter, but not in the summer when it gets rather too warm in the sun, despite the gorgeous views. The first half is in the sunshine, directly facing the sea and the bay of Eze, then the trail turns inland and up the forested Vallon du Duc, before reaching the village. Bring plenty of water but hiking boots aren’t essential, trainers are enough.

Second half of the Nietzsche trail looking backwards towards the sea whilst heading inland towards Eze Village

- The Village itself doesn’t have that much to see but is pleasant to wander around, soaking in the atmosphere and the architecture. Two main 5-star hotels – the Chèvre d’Or and Chateau Eza, the latter being the former palace of the King of Sweden – have fantastic but expensive food and views. The best view is from the Jardin Exotique, right on top of the mound, affording a view over the coastline overlooking Cap Ferrat, and you might even see Corsica on a clear winter’s day – even though you do need to pay a frankly exaggerated 5€ to enjoy this view, you will have probably walked your way up to the village so you deserve it! Otherwise, a historical church, some fortifications and plenty of nice but overpriced “art, craft and pottery” galleries for tourists.

The "Eagle's Nest" of Eze Village viewed from the top of the Nietzsche trail

The pretty alleyways of Eze Village

Do note that Eze Village also has a perfume factory, Fragonard which is an interesting visit if you are so inclined. However, the drawback is that it is a major stop for tour groups heading to Monaco from Nice so the place can get rather packed if there is a cruise ship in the vicinity… Fortunately the masses do not stay there too long, just the time to follow their guide towards the gift shop!!!

Useful links
- Eze Tourist Office
- Fragonard Perfumes
- Chèvre d’Or Hotel and Restaurant
- Chateau Eza Hotel and Restaurant
- Biography of Friedrich Nietzsche

Cap d’Ail and the Mala Beach coastal path

5 Oct

View near the start of the Mala footpath looking back towards Monaco

This is really one of my favourite walks down the coast from Monaco into the town of Cap d’Ail just west (in the direction of Nice).  This small and pleasant residential town, built in several layers between sea level and the mountainside of the Tête de Chien, is not just a dormitory town for people working in Monaco, even though it is only one station away by train: there are several noteworthy attractions, notably the nice beaches, Belle Epoque architecture and various rather luxurious villas with numerous famous residents over the years, such as Greta Garbo, Winston Churchill, Lord Beaverbrook, Sacha Guitry and the Lumière Brothers.  If you’re interested in this, I’d advise to check out the  Cap d’Ail Tourist Office website, which has quite a lot of decent information.  

The Mala footpath

For me though, the main reason to head to Cap d’Ail though is the wonderful 3,6 km long coastal path which can comfortably be covered in just over an hour and stretches from the Plage Marquet (500m west of the border with Monaco at Fontvieille) to the splendid Plage de la Mala.  This footpath, not to be used during days with rough seas, can easily be accessed by car or on foot from Monaco train station: most of it is pretty easy even if you’re not great hikers, apart from the last approach to the Mala beach which is slightly more strenuous.  In the summer, there isn’t much shade and things can get rather warm, especially around midday, so, as with any coastal walks you do on the Riviera, bring plenty of suncream and more water than you think you will need.  I would advise you to cover it starting from Monaco and ending at the Mala (leaving the best till last), although it can also be done in the opposite direction.

The coastal footpath approaching Mala beach

Leaving behind the wall of concrete that marks the border with Monaco and the port of Cap d’Ail, the vegetation suddenly turns wild and one follows a succession or rocky coves and bays, whilst passing underneath sumptuous Belle Epoque villas, where one can only imagine the sumptuous views enjoyed by the inhabitants.  There are also plenty of little detours and easily accessible coves with secluded areas to swim in.  Finally, the last bend round the cape and a beautiful but strenuous staircase bring you to what, in my humble opinion, is probably the most secluded, magical and beautiful beach in the whole Côte d’Azur, la Mala.

The beautiful limestone cliffs on Mala Beach - just like in Thailand!

The turquoise deep water bay is surrounded by limestone cliffs with a view of the eastern coast of the Cap Ferrat peninsula in the distance and I used to describe it to my hotel guests as looking like Thailand.  In summer, the water is dotted with yachts and the two rather exclusive beach bars are packed by some of the rich and famous (have bumped into one of the former James Bonds several times there, relaxing and having a beer, which is why one of my British friends visiting generally refers to la Mala as “Roger Moore Beach”).  But out of the peak tourist season, the beach isn’t too crowded, the footpath is full of local families and the beauty of the area is just surreal.  Note that even from the train, you can get a great view from above of la Mala, just before arriving in Cap d’Ail station (in the direction of Monaco and Ventimiglia/Italy).

Do note that you can also get to la Mala from Cap d’Ail railway station: just head towards the sea, you’ll get to the footpath and turn right: the beach is about 10 minutes away.  But if you have the time it would be a shame not to follow the footpath which will be a really memorable highlight of your stay on the Riviera and something not always mentioned in guidebooks.  For more details for French speakers on this itinerary, there is some excellent and detailed background information on the  regional government website

Getting to Cap d’Ail

Cap d’Ail is rather sprawled out along the coast from east to west along 5 kms.

-          By train: Cap d’Ail train station is located in the town centre, about 3 kms west of Monaco and 10 kms east of Nice.  There are regular coastal trains from either point, but make not all trains stop there, so check the timetables beforehand (download timetable number 4 in the drop-down menu).

-          By bus: Rapides Côte d’Azur line 100 provides services from Nice and Monaco approximately every 15 minutes.  Allow during off peak hours about 15 minutes from Monaco and 35 from Nice, cost is only €1 for a single journey regardless of the distance (the same applies for any bus trip within the Alpes Maritimes region, a fantastic deal despite the travel times being much longer than the train).

Very important note on public transport in the region. Try to avoid travelling towards Monaco between 7.30am and 9am and away from Monaco between 5pm and 6.30pm as that’s when all the commuters do the same and you want to avoid being caught in rush hour hell.

Cap Martin and the Sentier des Douaniers

5 Oct

Cap Martin and the Golfe Bleue beach

This coastal footpath is part of a longer walk between Monaco and Menton, alongside the picturesque Cap Martin, a rather wild peninsula with very secluded villas separating the two towns.  It affords fantastic views of Monaco, the perched village of medieval Roquebrune, Menton and the Italian coastline so is well worth a few hours on a beautiful afternoon.  The most scenic part however is located between the railway stations of Carnolès and Roquebrune-Cap Martin so I will be covering this in that direction, as the views are slightly nicer.  Walking at a leisurely pace, this section can be covered in about 2 hours and combined with a visit to Menton or Monaco to make a pretty complete day trip.

Starting from Carnolès train station, walk down to the coastline and follow the way round the peninsula to the tip in about 15 minutes: this part is actually rather urbanised but still affords good views of the old town of Menton as well as of the Italian coast, up to Bordighera and San Remo.

Winter view over the Italian resort of Bordighera from the tip of Cap Martin

The tip is really the start of the “Sentier des Douaniers” (sounds nice in French but which actually translates less romantically as the “Footpath of the Customs Officers”) – fortunately this is also known as the Sentier Le Corbusier, named after the legendary Swiss-born architect, famed for his minimalist modern styles, who lived here until his death in 1965 and is buried in the village of Cap Martin.  The path winds its way along the coast, offering fine views of the skyscrapers of Monte Carlo, the older buildings of Monaco Ville as well as hang-gliders diving from the mountains and landing on the beaches if they are lucky or the sea otherwise…  If you’re interested in the amazing views offered by this, see the site of the local hang-gliding club.  Various very secluded luxury villas with amazing views can be spotted if you are able to take your eyes off the water views and look upwards: the building pictured here is just the “seaside lodge” of the huge residence located on top of the hill and hidden away by rather impressive gardens!

There are plenty of lovely private villas on the Cap Martin coastal path - this is only the "pavillion" of one of the huge properties on top

At the end of the footpath, you can get a decent view of the medieval village of Roquebrune, which is a stiff walk uphill but worth it as the ancient castle has amazing bird’s eye views over Monaco and the surrounding mountains.

The medieval village of Roquebrune, viewed from the coastal footpath

After this, you can either head back to Nice or wherever from Roquebrune-Cap Martin train station or sample the delights of the long and sandy Golfe Bleue beach: Le Corbusier also built a beach house on the Plage de la Buse, just before that.  It is also possible to walk back to Monaco, also following the coastline: allow about 45 minutes for this.  As with the Cap d’Ail itinerary, French speakers can find some excellent and detailed background information on the regional government website.

Walking Tour around the Old Town of Monaco

5 Oct Typical medieval alleyway in the Old Town of Monaco

Typical medieval alleyway in the Old Town of Monaco

This is basically part of the walking tour I recommended to guests staying at my hotel a few years ago.  Allow about 90 minutes at a leisurely pace, excluding food pitstops or visits of monuments.

The tour starts at the Place d’Armes: the central market square within easy downhill access from the train station (turn right when exiting the train from Nice towards the “Fontvieille” exit” and go through the tunnel with travellators then follow the signposts and the crowds of people). The typically “Provençal” (ie. slightly overpriced but with lots of good quality “Mediterranean” produce) market is open every morning until around 12pm, so could be worth a quick stopover to have a nice coffee or to grab a snack – there are several reasonable places inside, including one selling “socca”, a typical regional pancake made of chick pea flower. The Place d’Armes is also a great place for people-watching and to see real Monegasque locals going about their daily business (quite a feat especially in the summer), and where most gossip is exchanged about what is going on in town.

Place d'Armes market, Monaco

Place d'Armes market, Monaco

- Looking up from the Place d’Armes, you can already notice the fortifications protecting the Prince’s Palace on the side of the Rocher, notably the Bastion de Serravalle, which dominates the street, as well as the elegant Italianate porticoes of the Palace itself and the fake-medieval clock tower, which was in fact built in the 19th century to look old.

- The quickest way up the hill is to climb the steps of the Rampe Majeure, a 16th century staircase affording great views of the harbour as you climb up. It’s a bit steep but not a very long climb worth it once you get up and see the view.

The Rampe Majeur, climbing towards the Palace Square

The ramp culminates on Palace Square, where you’ll be greeted by the bronze statue of a monk concealing a sword, representing François Grimaldi, also known as “Malizia”, who stormed the Palace in 1297 and founded the ruling dynasty. The Palace Square accommodates the infamous Changing of the Guard at 11.55am every day – to be honest don’t bother standing with the hot and bothered crowds to get a glimpse of the Palace Guards walking in the sun unless you’re a pomp aficionado…

The visit of the Palace is reasonably interesting, especially if you want to see the main courtyard and the throne room where the Royal wedding took place. It costs 8 € to get in, including an audioguide, but is only open from April to the end of October.

Other than that, the main draws are the views from either side of the square.

On the side just at the top of the ramp, picture postcard view of Monte Carlo and the casino, the Port Hercule harbour, the not-so-pretty mountainside skyscrapers with Cap Martin and the Italian Riviera in the distance – so three countries in the same photo!

View over Monte Carlo, France and Italy from Palace Square

The opposite side of Palace Square also affords great views of the peaceful new harbour and residential neighbourhood of Fontvieille, entirely built on reclaimed land from the 1960s onwards.

View from Palace Square looking west towards the Port of Fontvieille

View from Palace Square looking west towards the Port of Fontvieille

- The centre of the Old Town is dominated by three narrow pedestrian streets, notably rue Basse, rue Comte Félix Gastaldi and rue Emile de Loth: generally to be avoided, if possible, due to a concentration of tour groups, souvenir shops and snack bars serving rubber sandwiches at silly prices. Rue Emile de Loth is however slightly more pleasant and a little less crowded than the other two, due to the presence of some nice squares around the back of the Cathedral. The streets are however lovely in the evening once everyone has left and the Old Town has regained its medieval peace and quiet.

However, there are some unspoilt streets including rue des Remparts/rue Notre Dame de Lorète – running from the Port Hercule side of the Palace – and, on the opposite side built on the cliff facing Fontvieille, the Promenade Sainte Barbe featuring some dream flats! In the middle of the Old Town, check out the Place de la Mairie with the very quaint Chapelle de la Miséricorde and the town hall, and then head down towards the Place de la Visitation, home to most of the major government ministries and the residence of the Minister of State (the head of government, and therefore the closest you get in Monaco to a Prime Minister).

- A must-see is the Jardins Saint Martin, perched on the Fontvieille side of the cliff between the Cathedral and the Oceanographic Museum: head downwards towards the sea, to the little esplanade with the statue of Prince Albert I (the seafaring prince who founded the museum) and check out the amazing architecture of the building, that seems as if it was pre-built, lifted up intact by a giant and slammed into the cliffside. Entrance to the museum will set you back around 14 €.

The lovely and peaceful Jardins St Martin, located in the Old Town just between the Oceanographic Museum and the Cathedral

Oceanographic Museum viewed from Jardins Saint Martin with Cap Martin in the distance

The Oceanographic Museum viewed from Jardins Saint Martin with Cap Martin in the distance

- To leave the Old Town, head towards the opposite tip from the Palace, and walk down through the gardens after the Oceanographic Museum towards the Fort Antoine, which was built to defend the Principality against foreign invaders but now serves as an amphitheatre in the summer. It used to be totally exposed to the waves, before the extension of the Port Hercule began in 1999.

The Fort Antoine amphitheatre, located at the tip of the Rock

Walk down the steps around the new harbour jetty towards the soon-to-be-moved Yacht Club and you will be on Quai Antoine 1er, back at sea level. From there, you can either walk back along the U-shape of the port and admire some of the boats, or else use the Bateau Bus to cross the harbour towards Monte-Carlo and then take the public lift up to the Casino.

Introduction to the Old Town of Monaco

5 Oct The whole Rock of Monaco viewed from the Jardin Exotique

The whole Rock of Monaco viewed from the Jardin Exotique

This is also known as “Monaco Ville” or “Le Rocher” (the Rock) and is the government and historical centre of the Principality, as well as being one of the two main tourist sites. The old town of Monaco might seem a bit too clean and glitzy for connaisseurs of other more authentic villages in the region, such as Sainte Agnès, La Brigue or even Villefranche – it is Monaco after all…  However, if you follow the advice below, it is always possible to have a nice walk around, trying to avoid the hordes of tourists and souvenir shops. That is why the best time of day is dusk, once the souvenir shops have closed, the streets are quieter and the crowds of tourists have taken their coaches either back to their cruise ship or to drive round the harbour and “visit Monte Carlo” in 15 minutes.

Main attractions (to be detailed in subsequent articles):

- The Oceanographic Museum, an amazing building built into the side of the cliff and simply one of the best aquariums in Europe: official website

The Oceanographic Museum viewed from Jardins Saint Martin

The Oceanographic Museum viewed from Jardins Saint Martin

- Follow mywalking tour around the beautiful small pedestrian streets, churches and gardens.

Typical medieval alleyways of Monaco's old town

Typical medieval alleyways of Monaco's old town

- The Prince’s Palace, official residence of the Prince and Princess of Monaco, location of the Royal court, almost a city within the city and most recently the main theatre of the stunning royal wedding in July 2011. Read more in the “Walking Tour” article and on the official website.

The clock tower of the Prince's Palace of Monaco viewed from the harbour

- The Cathedral: an imposing white marble edifice which recently celebrated its centenary, famous mainly for the tombs of the various Princes of Monaco, as well that of Princess Grace. The visit is actually a very moving experience for royal watchers, given the number of historical events that have been commemorated there, both happy and sad. More information on the official Cathedral website.

The Cathedral of Monaco

The Cathedral of Monaco

- Some small museums: the Monte Carlo Story and the museum of Old Monegasque Traditions, only if you are really enthusiastic about the history of Monaco or the royal family. Otherwise, don’t bother and instead, just walk down to the port and the Grand Prix circuit, follow the trail of yachts around the waterfront and head towards Monte Carlo and the casino.

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